Showing posts with label Sidewalk Astronomy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sidewalk Astronomy. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Sidewalk astronomy

If you are an amateur astronomer, I do recommend that you try sidewalk astronomy. I have found it to be a truly rewarding experience. People are very appreciative of the effort and always have a great time. It is nice to take along a friend or another amateur astronomer for moral support. In fact, several telescopes really make it an event that will attract a crowd. The best time to go out is between First Quarter and Full Moon when deep sky observing is not possible. People love to see the moon through a telescope and are usually awestruck! When I started sidewalk astronomy, I never observed the Moon or planets for more than a minute or two during a session as I felt is was a waste of my time since I was only interested in deep sky objects. Now I enjoy lunar and planetary observing and have learned a great deal about these objects through my research which I conducted in order to better answer questions I was asked by the public. Anyways the best places to set up are areas of high foot traffic such as Barnes and Noble, and Starbucks. Attracting a crowd is easy when you have a telescope set up.Here is a picture of a small group around my scope in a Albertson's Supermarket parking lot. I had over 30 people come over to my scope and everyone enjoyed viewing the moon that night.




Small Astrograph setup

Here is a pic of my new setup I've been working on the past month. Orion 4.25" (114mm) F3.5 newtonian with rings and dovetal mounted on the Celestron CG-5 equitorial mount. I added the Celestron dual axis drive system, some old knobs from http://www.msplinks.com/MDFodHRwOi8vd3d3LmZvY3Vza25vYnMuY29t , my LXD55 polar scope and also did more mods to the DeWalt construction tripod to make it very rigid. I used Birch to make the eyepiece tray- leg speader and I am in the process of making a wheely bar system to roll it out and level the scope. I disassembled the mount completely then soaked and cleaned the original grease from all the interior parts, deburred the wormgear, and relubed all of the bearing components with white lithium grease which the manufacturer should use. After that I made critical adjustments to the wormgears and now the mount motions are smooth as butter with no backlash at all and the tracking is dead on. This is turning out to be a really fun project!
Now my next project on this system is to solder in an ST-4 usb autoguider port which I will obtain from http://www.msplinks.com/MDFodHRwOi8vd3d3LnNob2VzdHJpbmdhc3Ryb25vbXkuY29t . My 102mm Maksutov will be mounted piggyback as a guide scope as soon as I get a set of mounting rings. The Maksutov alone is quite a nice scope giving nice images of planets, the moon, and brighter nebula. It is also excellent for splitting double stars. This whole project came about by a myspace friend ( Dave )sending me the EQ head at no charge or this project would have never started. Since I had open heart surgery I have ALOT of idle time and lack of funds, so this project was just what the doctor ordered! I can't thank you enough Dave.The info for the CG-5 mount at http://www.msplinks.com/MDFodHRwOi8vd3d3LmFzdHJvbm9teWJveS5jb20= is priceless. There is step by step instructions there for doing the mount tune up for the CG5 and LXD55/75 mounts. If you have one of these mounts I would recommend this project.

Dual Speed Crayford Focuser w/ 10:1 Ratio



I have just installed a new GSO (Guan Sheng Optical) dual speed low profile crayford focuser with a 10:1 ratio on my 12.5" Dicovery PDHQ Dob. The focuser really has a nice feel and finish, better than I had expected. The focuser and the 1.25" adapter both utilize compression rings which will save my eyepieces from set screw marks on the barrels. I ordered it through Agena Astro and it arrived in 2 days. They always treat their customers right. Installation was a snap, I only had to drill 2 mounting holes in the telescope tube and that's it. I bolted it on and re-collimated my scope. My heaviest eyepiece setup is 4 lbs. and this focuser lifts it with no problems at all which seems to be the concern of some folks but that sure seems unfounded by me. With the micro focus I have been able to squeeze out the finest details from Jupiter and other objects.

Cleaning your telescope's primary mirror.

Okay here is the technique I use for cleaning my primary mirror. In the 4 years I have owned my scope, I have cleaned the primary and secondary mirror twice. Since I live in the desert my scope picks up alot of dust and I do hold off as long as possible before I do this. My mirror costs $850.00 to replace or $250.00 to recoat so I don't take cleaning it lightly. I have cleaned over 20 primary mirrors and have not had any problems with this technique. Here is the formula for the cleaning solution.....
2 cups distilled water
1/8th cup of 90% Isopropyl Alcohol
3 small drops of clear dishwashing liquid
I gallon of distilled water for rinsing.
1 bag of sterile cotton balls
You can get distilled water at the grocery store for around a buck a gallon.
Add the 2 cups of distilled water into a bowl, then add the alcohol, then the dishwashing soap (in that order) then mix with a spoon. you don't want the soap to foam up your mixture.
Remove the primary mirror from the mirror cell and blow off the dust with your breath. I don't use canned air because the propellant can damage your mirror coatings instantly. Fill your kitchen sink half full with lukewarm tap water and place the mirror in water face up and let it soak for around 10 to 20 minutes. Pour your cleaning solution in a bowl and add about 20 cotton balls into the solution. Take the mirror out and place it on a towell and keep it wet with the distilled water. Now take a soaked cotton ball from the solution and place it in the center of the mirror. Now drag the cotton ball using only its own weight (don't push down on it) to the edge of the mirror and throw the cotton ball away. Take another soaked cotton ball and do the same thing. Work your way in a circle around the mirror only pulling the cotton balls from the center to the edge. NEVER use a cotton ball twice. Always throw them away after 1 pass. After going around the entire mirror tilt the mirror up (in the sink) and rinse with the distilled water. The distilled water will mostly run off in a solid sheet . For any remaining spots of water use a paper towell folded to a small point and just barely touch it to the water droplet and it will soak it off of the mirror. That is pretty much it. Don't resort to cleaning the mirror unless it is REALLY dirty. If you end up 1 or 2 water spots don't worry about them for they will not affect your viewing at all.

The Veil Nebula NGC6960



Friday, August 01, 2008


I located the object that had been my main reason for setting up tonight - the Veil Nebula in Cygnus. This is both a very easy and a very hard object to see. Easy because it's large and one part of it intersects a fairly bright star (52 Cygni - I don't know the exact visual magnitude but it's probably between 4.0 and 5.0), hard because it's quite faint and really requires either a UHC of an OIII filter to see. The last time I'd been out I found the Western Veil (the part that intersects 52 Cygni) and, even with the filter, found it to be quite hard to see. I had my 19mm Panoptic along with the UHC filter and centered my 12.5" scope on 52 Cygni and there it was, a faint, misty streamer of light pouring away from the star. There's a smaller portion of the nebula on the other side of the star but I've so far been unable to resolve this. I spent a good 45 minutes observing this ribbon of light. Now I decided to have a go at the Eastern Veil. This turned out to be almost trivially easy to locate by simply slewing the 'scope to the left slightly. The Eastern Veil resembles nothing more than a cobweb, floating against the stars, with many more filaments and strands becoming visible as I let my eyes relax. This is a truly lovely object to view and one I'm not going to get tired of in a hurry. If nothing else it's made me want to invest in an OIII filter as well as my UHC, as I've heard that an OIII is a better filter for viewing the Veil Nebula.

The Constellations Lyra and Cygnus

Lyra and Cygnus
This month the constellations Lyra and Cygnus are seen almost overhead as darkness falls with their bright stars Vega, in Lyra, and Deneb, in Cygnus, making up the "summer triangle" of bright stars with Altair in the constellation Aquila.
Lyra
Lyra is dominated by its brightest star Vega, the fifth brightest star in the sky. It is a blue-white star having a magnitude of 0.03, and lies 26 light years away. It weighs three times more than the Sun and is about 50 times brighter. It is thus burning up its nuclear fuel at a greater rate than the Sun and so will shine for a correspondingly shorter time. Vega is much younger than the Sun, perhaps only a few hundred million years old, and is surrounded by a cold,dark disc of dust in which an embryonic solar system is being formed!
There is a lovely double star called Epsilon Lyrae up and to the left of Vega. A pair of binoculars will show them up easily - you might even see them both with your unaided eye. In fact a telescope, provided the atmosphere is calm, shows that each of the two stars that you can see is a double star as well so it is called the double double!

Epsilon Lyra - The Double Double
Between Beta and Gamma Lyra lies a beautiful object called the Ring Nebula. It is the 57th object in the Messier Catalogue and so is also called M57. Such objects are called planetary nebulae as in a telescope they show a disc, rather like a planet. But in fact they are the remnants of stars, similar to our Sun, that have come to the end of their life and have blown off a shell of dust and gas around them.The Ring Nebula looks like a greenish smoke ring in a small telescope, but is not as impressive as it is shown in photographs in which you can also see the faint central "white dwarf" star which is the core of the original star which has collapsed down to about the size of the Earth.Still very hot this shines with a blue-white colour, but is cooling down and will eventually become dark and invisible - a "black dwarf"!
M57 - the Ring Nebula Image: Hubble Space telescope
M56 is an 8th magnitude Globular Cluster visible in binoculars roughly half way between Alberio (the head of the Swan) and Gamma Lyrae. It is 33,000 light years away and has a diameter of about 60 light years. It was first seen by Charles Messier in 1779 and became the 56th entry into his catalogue.
Cygnus
Cygnus, the Swan, is sometimes called the "Northern Cross" as it has a distinctive cross shape, but we normally think of it as a flying Swan. Deneb,the arabic word for "tail", is a 1.3 magnitude star which marks the tail of the swan. It is nearly 2000 light years away and appears so bright only because it gives out around 80,000 times as much light as our Sun. In fact if Deneb where as close as the brightest star in the northern sky, Sirius, it would appear as brilliant as the half moon and the sky would never be really dark when it was above the horizon!
The star, Albireo, which marks the head of the Swan is much fainter, but a beautiful sight in a small telescope. This shows that Albireo is made of two stars, amber and blue-green, which provide a wonderful colour contrast.With magnitudes 3.1 and 5.1 they are regarded as the most beautiful double star that can be seen in the sky.
Cygnus lies along the line of the Milky Way, the disk of our own Galaxy, and provides a wealth of stars and clusters to observe. Just to the left of the line joining Deneb and Sadr, the star at the centre of the outstretched wings, you may, under very clear dark skys, see a region which is darker than the surroundings. This is called the Cygnus Rift and is caused by the obscuration of light from distant stars by a lane of dust in our local spiral arm. The dust comes from elements such as carbon which have been built up in stars and ejected into space in explosions that give rise to objects such as the planetary nebula M57 described above.
There is a beautiful region of nebulosity up and to the left of Deneb which is visible with binoculars in a very dark and clear sky. Photographs show an outline that looks like North America - hence its name the North America Nebula. Just to its right is a less bright region that looks like a Pelican, with a long beak and dark eye, so not surprisingly this is called the Pelican Nebula .
Brocchi's Cluster An easy object to spot with binoculars in Gygnus is "Brocchi's Cluster", often called "The Coathanger",although it appears upside down in the sky! Follow down the neck of the swan to the star Alberio, then sweep down and to its lower left. You should easily spot it against the dark dust lane behind.

Averted vision technique

When viewing through binoculars or telescopes, most deep sky objects look like faint fuzzy blotches of light - at first. The ability of the human eye to see intricate detail even in faint objects is truly impressive if one takes the time to develop the needed observing skills. First and most important is to make sure the observer is DARK ADAPTED. This means setting up in a dark-sky site with no white lights (streetlights, car headlights, porch lights, flashlights) in view. The pupils in the eye take a minimum of 15 minutes to fully dilate and thus adjust to see faint details in the dark. Now you are ready to use AVERTED VISION to discern fine details on astronomical objects. When viewing through the eyepiece, look not only directly at the subject but around the edges or even slightly off to the side. Slowly look back and forth and around it in this manner, and finer details will seem to flicker in out of the "corner of your eye"! This is happening because your peripheral vision is more sensitive to faint light than your direct vision, which is more constantly used. To preserve your night vision, use a red-filtered flashlight to read star maps or find your way around. A similar technique that employs the same principle is called scope rocking, and is done by simply moving the telescope back and forth slightly to move the object around in the field of view. It is also important to note that it also matters whether you avert right or left. The most effective direction is that which places the object on the nasal side of the vision. So, for right-eyed observers it is best to shift to the right, and for left-eye observers it is best to shift to the left. Some people also claim that it is better to avert up instead of down. The best thing to do is practice and find the best location for one’s own eyes.

Binoculars for astronomy?



Why would I want to buy a pair of binoculars when I can put that money toward a nice telescope?

Good question! Let's see. A telescope can offer more powerful views than binoculars, you can get a decent telescope for about the same price as some binoculars, and telescopes look more impressive. But binoculars have a couple of advantages that make them worthy of consideration. First of all, they're extremely portable and can be ready to go at a moment's notice. Also, they are binocular, which means you can look through them with both eyes and don't have to squint one eye closed, like you do with a telescope. Many amateur astronomers have both a telescope and a pair of binoculars. Beleive it or not, there are some astronomical objects that can actually look better through a pair of binoculars than they do through the most expensive telescope in the world! Binoculars are usually labelled with two numbers, separated by an "X". The first number represents the magnification and the second number represents the aperture (usually in millimeters). For example, if you come across a pair of binoculars labelled 7X50, that means that objects appear 7 times closer to you than they really are, and the outer objective lenses each measure 50mm in diameter. Since a bigger objective lens means that more light can enter the binoculars, the larger these lenses are, the brighter the objects will appear. Particularly in the case of stargazing, this means that more details can be brought out in the object being viewed. So the best binoculars are those giant 20X80's I saw in the camera shop, right? Not necessarily. The greater the magnification, the more noticeable an unsteady image is. Most people can only hold binoculars steady enough in their hands to support about 10X. There are mounts available to hold binoculars, like the one I built in the photo above